An hour flight to Seattle, then an hour layover. An eleven hour flight to Tokyo and another hour layover. An seven hour flight to Singapore and then six hours of layover. Two and a half more hours and I was at the airport in Yangon standing in line at immigration waiting my turn to have my photo taken and wondering momentarily if the lady in the military uniform in front of me would let me into the country. It’s a touch of useless anxiety that sometimes strikes the first time I enter a country I’ve never been to before, especially one like this. Totally silly.
Everything was in order. Welcome to Myanmar. Or, as the United States prefers to call it, Burma.
I collected my bags and moved onto the next step in the process: Getting local currency. Modern ATM and credit card networks have made this part of international travel easy in most of the world. Not here. You need to bring all the money you’ll need in cash. Even then, it’s not just a matter of slapping some dollars on the counter and getting kyats back. First, your bill have to pass the most intense of inspections, not just a the normal counterfit check you might expect. No, the bill has to be in perfect pristine shape. Creases or marks of any kind simply are not tolerated.
I’d been warned about this brought the crispest bills my local bank had on hand. Even so, the first few I put down weren’t good enough for the money changer at the airport. See that little line on the left side of Benjamin’s face below? Totally unacceptable.
Everyone’s dollars received high-intensity scrutiny. The Japanese group in front of me. The gaggle of Germans behind me. Every bill was examined as if it were a collectable about to go on auction. Protests, both muted and strong, about the ones rejected were met with a shrug. If you simply show up with cash out of your local ATM, you’re screwed.
The bills that do get accepted get counted, counted again, then handed over to someone else for machine counting. Twice. Check and double check. Your passport details are recorded by a third person. A fourth person counts out a pile of 5000 kyat notes—the largest denomination of local currency, each worth about $6. Then a fifth counts everything out again and has you sign a receipt. Twice. It’s the sort of process you’d expect in a Vegas backroom.
Of course, that fat stack of kyat you get? Not nearly in the same kind of pristine condintion demanded of foriegn currency. I had to bite my tounge not to be snarky.
A half hour later, I’m in a room at the Fame Hotel. It’s well known enough that the young woman that sat next to me on the flight from Singapore had heard of it. 20,000 kyat for the night. A perfect place to clean up and then pass out from jet lag. An early morning taxi back to the airport awaits.